Thousands of emerging-to-established designers pitch their collections to Eric Jennings, VP and fashion director of menswear of Saks Fifth Avenue, hoping to earn coveted hanger real estate in one of his 45 stores. Of those thousands of pitches, Eric can only count on one hand the number of vendors he planned to visit at MAGIC tradeshow in Las Vegas—three, to be exact.

“That’s a problem because I want to find the next Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein,” says Eric. “That’s what I feel passionate about.” Eric says it’s not for lack of design talent; rather, there’s a significant disconnect with the way young designers approach the retailer. Here, Eric shares insider tips for young designers to better prep pitches to buyers and land a spot on the shelves of a major retailer.

Do your homework.
Too often, Eric meets with young designers who’ve never stepped foot into Saks. “It’s shocking how many people say they’ve been in Saks and then I ask when was the last time they were in our store,” Eric says. “When I get a negative answer, I turn the volume down on their voice, look at my watch, and can’t wait for that meeting to end.”

Eric suggests taking a field trip and studying a store’s matrix: Does your product fill a void in terms of style and price point? What brands would you want to hang next to? If you had to remove something to make room for your line, what would it be and why? “Be prepared to show me something we don’t already have,” Eric says. “There’s only so many square feet in our store.”

Get the word out.
Is your brand using technology to create awareness? Creatively utilize social media campaigns, smart phone apps, mobile marketing campaigns, and discover a key set of bloggers who might potentially review your product. “Bloggers have fundamentally changed the industry,” Eric says. “We’ve learned they have an incredibly loyal following to their voice, which means we have a whole new audience we’re inviting to our stores.” Also, spreading the word to stores about your new collection with editorial credits and public relations is key: can you support in-store events and co-op advertising vehicles? Those who can will get the best placement on the shelves.

Prepare for first contact.
Nowadays, buyers are rarely at their desk, so expect to introduce your brand via email. To grab a buyer’s attention, Eric suggests adding a personal touch to your email. “I get so many [pitches] not specifically addressed to anyone,” Eric says.  He also suggests framing your pitch with a reference point: How did you get their contact information? Did you read their article recently in the Times? Also, keep it short and simple. “Receiving long emails on a BlackBerry is  an absolute nightmare,” Eric says.

Timing is everything.
Familiarize yourself with the timing of collections so you know when to pitch your product to buyers. In May, Saks starts looking at pre-spring. In June, buyers review spring collections. November begins pre-fall collections and January marks fall collection review. “The clock is ticking and those that get on our radar early have more chance of ending up on our shelves,” Eric says.

Prepare for trade shows.
With such a large volume of product displayed, walking trade show floors is daunting for any buyer. “Hanger appeal is critical,” Eric says. “If your product doesn’t have hanger appeal, someone is going to walk right past it.” Products that catch Eric’s eye are known as BlackBerry stoppers: items that have enough power to get a buyer off his/her phone to interact with your collection. Color and items with interesting twists tend to grab Eric’s attention. Also, from a menswear perspective, Eric says the hand of the product has to have substance and structure to avoid looking flimsy on a hanger.

Know your customer.
For the average man who shops at Saks, there is a certain price the customer is comfortable paying for a suit, pair of shoes or shirt. As a designer, you need to know your customer’s spending habits and whether your product reflects that price threshold. “Retailers want you to be successful in our stores,” Eric says. “Men are more price resistant if they’re not familiar with your brand and as new designer, your brand has to be accessible.”  Also, when designing for your customer, think about which part of his/her lifestyle you are addressing; consider how he/she dresses during the weekdays, weekends and evenings.

Consider product and price.
Create enough breadth in your collection so major luxury retailers can differentiate their buys. “Nordstrom doesn’t want to look Niemans and Saks doesn’t want to look like Bergdorfs,” Eric says. “Each retailer wants their own point of view.” And regardless of the season, consider weight-appropriate fabrics for specific climates and regions. A Saks in the East carries different product than a Saks in the West or South.

Distribute accordingly.
Is a department store the best fit for your brand? Is a boutique a better option? “It all depends how exclusive you want your brand to be,” Eric says, “but make your decision early on and stick to it.” If the product best fits with a major luxury retailer, Eric says that retailer will support you, mentor you and help grow your business. “That’s why we’re a little more choosey about who we bring in so we can have that long-term relationship and hopefully discovered the next Donna Karran, Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren,” Eric says.