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Home » Sustainability

The Changing Face Of Apparel Production: New Emphasis On Local

Submitted by on 04/27/2011 – 5:36 AM4 Comments | 2,442 views

When it comes to manufacturing apparel, the fashion industry is a state of turmoil.  Several decades ago, China changed everything by becoming the go-to place for fashion labels to have their collections produced from the first pattern to the hangtag at a very low cost, positioning itself as the leading provider of the “full package deal” and setting the tone for the next thirty years of industry practice.

Made in China

Image: Sterlic Flickr Photostream

Now, with  China’s growing middle class, the unwillingness to continue to produce for such low wages, and the desire to keep things local and enrich its own economy, China has left the apparel industry scrambling for new places to have its garments made in the way in which it has become accustom. Well guess what, there’s no where left to go and brands are finding themselves quickly being pulled back to reality.  When it comes to overseas production, there remain but a few options for brands to find something similar to what they have known and definitely none that offer the same game-changing production process and terms that China once offered.

As a direct result, brands have had to start rethinking their production strategies. Brands can no longer blindly ship raw materials from one overseas country to another, having their collections cut and sewn at a ridiculously low cost, and {im}patiently waiting for the finished garments to be shipped completely ready for market.

Instead, the smart brands are starting to turn inward and take a hard look at the resources they have in their back yard. Why ship raw materials overseas when production can happen either right at home or very close to home?  This has created a deeper more intimate relationship with suppliers and manufacturers and caused a renewed interest in and appreciation for the craft and skill that goes into making clothing. Whether it’s a factory in Europe made up of skilled artisans or a community of talented and capable hands in the southern region of the United States, brands are realizing that in order to avoid finding themselves in a similar situation in another thirty years, they have to start utilizing and supporting the businesses in their own local areas.

While the majority of the industry is finding itself in the difficult situation of having to shift their entire production procedure, there are labels that have always utilized their local resources and are now finding themselves on the forefront of industry practice.

Below are three brands that have positioned themselves as examples of how apparel production can and should be done. These brands are marketable, saleable, and have successfully been producing product by focusing on their own domestic resources and the talents of local artisans and craftsmen, long before China decided to change the rules.

Risto Bimbiloski

When Risto Bimbiloski, a forward thinking and avant garde fashion designer in Macedonia, started his label, he made the decision to keep things local.  In order to do that, he started his own factory Bimbilibimbil as a means of producing his clothes. Though it started small, the factory is now made up of roughly 100 employees (some full time, others contract) who all possess true skill in apparel production and are paid well over typical factory wage.

In a recent interview with Aha Life, Bimblioski shared the three reasons for founding his own factory: “One was to have full control of quality and production, another was to preserve the region’s textile heritage and a third was to boost the economic climate in the area and provide well-paid, fair and responsible employment.”
Risto Bimbloski

Alabama Chanin

While the label Alabama Chanin is not new, it is and always has been a perfect example of how a brand has utilized the talents and skills of heritage craftsmanship.

The label is a sustainable business that employs a cluster of talented embroiderers and skilled sewers in the state of Alabama.  Faced with some complications early on, owner Natalie Chanin never considered sending her production overseas, but instead adjusted her business model, solved the glaring issues, and is now able to continue to fairly pay a community of craftspeople for its work hand embroidering fabric as well as hand sewing garments to produce her clothing line.

Alabama Chanin

Restore Clothing

Designed and created in New York City’s garment district, Restore Clothing is an active wear label that is produced using sustainable materials as well as the talents of patterns makers, cutters, and factories all within a small geographical area.

The individuals behind this brand have utilized domestic production practices from the onset of line’s creation, understanding and embracing their responsibility as business owners to help boost the local economy.

Restore Clothing

The changing face of global apparel production has left brands in an awkward position.  Those that have practiced the “traditional” way of doing things through the use of overseas factories and manufacturers are suddenly being forced to look elsewhere. While some may see this as a problem, others understand that this has opened the door to their own domestic resources.  The affects of China’s shift in production practices has allowed companies to adjust their vision.  They are now starting to understand that brands like Riga Bimbloski, Alabama Chanin, and Restore Clothing are becoming the fashion industry’s business model of the future.

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